BIG DAY: Return to Civilization, Part II

We arrive in Bettles about 5:30 p.m. - a good 4 hours after the others.  Glenda tells us how the plane was loaded with lumber and building materials for a remote lodge - where the plane went before it picked us up.

Glenda greeted us and escorted us to the "Bunkhouse" and associated real bathrooms and showers!  A shower feels good after 11 days without one.  Then we joined the rest of the group on the porch of the classic Bettles Lodge.

The sun shone on us, most of the mosquitoes were behind a screen, and we had beer and real food served to us on a plate!  Luxury!  The cards are out and we're all holding our ears from the noise.  The refueling station is where you see the red and white crosshatch.

Not only that, we had entertainment.  There was a forest fire (started from the town dump, a typical problem in Alaska) in Allakaket.  The planes in the picture on the left are fire fighting planes new to Alaska, Fire Boss AT802.  The plane can and scoop up 800 gallons of water in a minutes and then dump it on the fire.  The three planes flew in so the pilots could have dinner.





Unfortunately, I don't have a picture, but various helicopters landed to refuel.  Helicopters were delivering scientific parties to study road conditions between Bettles the Dalton Highway, through Bettles, and all the way to Ambler for Governor Parnell's "mining road."  (The short article here will fill you in if you're interested.  More on this later when I tell you about the Dalton Highway in later posts.)

By this time, Bettles was running out of aviation fuel.  Time to get some more!  Just fly it in!

It was 8 p.m. before the fuel plane showed up - flown in from Fairbanks by the Everts Air Fuel company.  But you have to remember it is the second longest day of the year - not only that, but above the Arctic Circle the sun never sets anyway.

I thought this was a DC-3, but it's a C46 as identified by a classmate of Mary Louise.  

Mary Louise took a picture of the logo on the side of the plane which we all appreciated.  After that, ML wandered around the planes and helicopters talking to all the pilots and fuelpeople. Luckily she didn't get run over.








By this time it was getting late and it had been a long day.  Ashley was the first to peel off to bed, followed by Bob and Glenda.  Mary Louise had Joey on the ropes in an exciting game of gin rummy, but he escaped with a win.  I was a woeful last.

The mosquito ridden "bunkhouse" without opening windows was a bust.  Half of us pitched a tent in the yard sometime well after midnight to get some sleep.  At least you don't have to have a headlamp to set it up.  So much for civilization.

What a great day.  I'll leave you with another great airplane, the DeHavilland Beaver.  Production of this plane ended in 1967 - and there are still lots of them flying.  Alaska wouldn't be the same without the Beaver workhorse.  Here it takes off from Malemute Fork with 2 rafts, 4 adults, and lots of gear.   Get out your earplugs.  See you later!

BIG DAY - WE RETURN TO CIVILIZATION Part I!!!

 This was a big day.  In fact, there have been a few days in my life that make a deep impression on my psyche as "classically Alaskan" - events or time reflect characteristics of the unique State that we live in and will stay with me for a long time.  This is one of those days.   

If you're an experienced adventurer, you're wondering whether we were really getting anywhere on the river and how we're going to get out of there and return to civilization.  Actually, we were wondering the same thing!  We were supposed to get picked up by Brooks Range Aviation (yep, go with them - they were really nice to us) at Malemute Fork at 10 a.m. in the morning.  But . . . we weren't going to make it despite our best efforts.

Up at 6 a.m. and a record time getting ready - probably because of the prevalence of mosquitoes.

It's routine.  Lather suncreen before the 99% deet bug spray with a final spriz from the pressurized "BUG DEFOGGING" spray can.  I'm starting to like it!

Another beautiful day!  The Alatna river is widening and the terrain is flattening out even more.  We can still see mountains in the background.

MODERN TECHNOLOGY can be a relief in more ways than one.  I'll choose this one today: Satphones.

Ashley is doing all the work calling Brooks Range Aviation while the rest of us are standing around "with our teeth in our mouth" (as our father used to say).


One of the best parts was that we were tagging along on Joey and Ashley's trip!! They had to do the organizing work!! And they did it well.

Thanks, Ashley and Joey.

WE DID IT - fighting through gale winds, hot sun, and mosquitoes.  We arrive at Malemute Fork where the a tributary of the Alatna River joins the Alatna.  But, exactly where do the planes pick us up?  That is the million dollar question.  We check the pick up description that Ashley very carefully wrote down 10 days ago.  Then MODERN TECHNOLOGY shows up again and Joey relents and checks his handheld GPS for the longitude and latitude that Ashley also carefully recorded 10 days ago.  The directions don't coincide with the GPS.  Time to use the Satphone.  We're there!  Right where we should be!   (As an aside, the 6 of us experienced a previous trip where it wasn't quite so easy, but that's a whole different story.)

We had time to take a picture.  Everyone always makes fun of me for my "camera teetering on some log time delay pictures," but this one turned out pretty nice.  Mary Louise is ready for the mosquitoes.

  Rafts deflated and rolled up, gear packed for the plane, lunch eaten, and we were ready.  Most of us are now quite excited about taking a shower.   It wasn't too long before the red and white showed up.    Chuck the gear in the plane and away they went.

Mary Louise and I volunteered for the second flight.    Mary Louise and I were careful to keep bear spray, bug spray, a stove to heat water, and some Starbucks packets.  Fortunately, the peach schnapps was all gone. 

A couple of hours later, the DeHavilland beaver showed up for us.  We didn't even need the bear spray.   If you haven't flown in a beaver, you're missing something.  Make sure you have your ear plugs when you do.

Stay tuned for Part II coming up!

Getting there, Day 2!!

After a day of Alaska Airlines 737 jets, it was nice to switch airplanes.  Alaska is a flying state, since it's so big.  I still love flying in a small airplane where you can see where you're going.

We live in a rain forest in Southeast Alaska.  May and the first week of June had been cold cold cold.  I'm not sure it had gotten above 50 degrees in the last 5 weeks.  It was a shock to be in Fairbanks and 80 degree weather.  I had to take this picture.  It's gonna be hot!

First, 170 miles northwest and an hour from Fairbanks to Bettles on a Cessna caravan - a great little plane.  Now we're above the arctic circle.

Small towns are small towns, but Alaska small towns are often in the middle of nowhere.  Bettles sure is, but they have a nice airstrip built in the late 1930's.  It was originally settled by Mr. Bettles who made his fortune selling things to gold miners.  You can just barely see the mountains of the Brooks Range in the back of this photo.

Don't worry, you can drive there on an "ice road" in the winter - about 8 hours to Fairbanks in minus zero temperatures.

We are met by friendly Brooks Range Aviation staff and a collection of other vehicles and people.  No security buffer here, thank God.

We're also met by hordes of mosquitoes.  Out come the headnets and DEET.  Spread it on thick!


The National Park Service has a very nice building in Bettles. You're required to do "training" and carry your food in "bear barrels."  We did the training thing and got our bear barrels.  Doggone things seemed awful heavy to me and aren't made to be packed on or in a backpack.

Then we board all our gear in a 1956 de Havilland Beaver aircraft and with a deafening roar, off we go.  An hour later, we land on Circle Lake along the upper Alatna River. 

 

Throw our gear onto land, make sure we get the gas for the stoves and the two bear spray canisters from the pontoon and Dan, our pilot, shoves off.

With a roar, Dan is off and we're left alone.  And I mean really alone.  Bettles is the nearest "civilization" at 120 miles - and there aren't any services there either.



We have nothing to do but shrug into our heavy packs and hope for the best.