Dalton Highway, Day 4

Yesterday, we drove back to Coldfoot for gas and the dinner buffet.  We stayed at Marion River Campground again, and visited the Visitor's Center for a real bathroom and an evening information session.

It was time to get back to civilization and escape the mosquitoes.  We took off from Coldfoot headed for Fairbanks.  Here are some general road photos just to show what it looked like.

But first, a musk ox picture from yesterday.  He or she was just hanging out not far from the road.

There are trucks, but I thought they were a bit overrated.  We didn't have any problems sharing the road, although I'm sure there are lots of broken or pockmarked windshields.    It was clear that much of the freight to Deadhorse was moved by truck, however!

Just a picture of the road.














Looking south down Atigun Pass (highest point on the road).

We're back to seeing trees.

You can only find cell phone coverage in Deadhorse and a little outside Fairbanks.  Remember those things that are connected to the wall?  Here's the Coldfoot "phoneroom."

There were HUGE expanses of past forest fires, more than the eye could see - and there wasn't much obstructing the view.

If you see the road, usually you'll see the pipeline.  Eighty percent of it is above ground.  The only time it is below ground is areas where there is no permafrost. 

The shape of the pipeline here is due to possible earthquake tremors or other movements of the pipe - the angles can absorb the potential push and shove.

The car got a bit dirty with a little rain.  Close the door fast so the mosquitoes don't get in!

We must be back close to Fairbanks!  The phone is out! 

Dalton Highway, Day 3

Another quick "pack up the gear, throw it in the car, and go" morning, but we had to get there for the tour.  We did, for a total of 430 miles.

The tour was great - we learned many things that we would not have - plus, we got to see the Arctic Ocean.  No one actually lives in Deadhorse or any of the three main camps in Prudhoe Bay - everyone, of which there were roughly 8000 people working in the three camps - works two weeks on and two weeks off or three on, three off.  The least paid employee makes no less than $65,000 a year.  There are absolutely no drugs, alcohol, or firearms permitted.  If you partake, you are escorted to the airport and are extradited immediately.  If you miss your flight to work, you are fired immediately.  People work on the north slope from all over the U.S. and some international.  One person we were told about commuted from England.

Two active drilling rigs.

We made it halfway.

Tourpeople dipping in the Arctic Ocean.

The caribou don't seem to worried about the oil business going on in the background.

Most of the drilling and exploratory work goes on during the fall, winter, and early spring.  Here are a few of the vehicles used in the winter.

Almost July and there is still ice in the water.


OK, we've seen what we can.  It's time to turn around and go back the way we came - the only way!






Lastly, the video below shows a 360 degree view of Deadhorse surrounding the lake.

Dalton Highway, Day 2

The town of Wiseman is not far from Coldfoot.  Unlike many of the old mining towns, Wiseman still survives with people in it - although not many.  After a fast break-down of camp and throwing gear in the car due to mosquitoes, we drove the 5 miles to Coldfoot for the breakfast buffet and then u-turned for a short 15 miles the other way to Wiseman.

Wiseman is an old mining town.  Bob Marshall's book "Arctic Village" is about his year staying in Wiseman in the 1930's.

Glenda had heard that a guy by the name of Jack Reakoff gave tours.  We just happened to run into one of the tours and asked if we could tag along.  Fascinating.  Jack (and his sisters) grew up in Wiseman, and still live there.  He lives off the land in one fashion or another: hunter, trapper, pilot, gardener, fisher, and tour guide.

Here is Jack's moose horn sculpture in the picture on the right.  After the tour, he invited us to his home and we sat around an listened to him talk.  I thought the most interesting was the impact of the Haul Road on the area - mostly in the fact that big moneyed hunters were able to access hunting grounds - and did - with a negative impact on the animal populations.

Jack had amazing gardens!

All in all, Wiseman was a very interesting place to stop.






Off we went to make some miles.  Our plan was to stay in the last campsite before Deadhorse.  You can't drive to the Arctic Ocean so Glenda had called to put us on the tour that gets you through the "secure" areas to the ocean.  The tour started at 9 a.m. the next day so we had to be within reasonable driving distance.

We ascended the Atigun Pass and dropped onto the arctic plain - next stop, Last Chance campground.  

Last Chance campground's only facility was a pit toilet.  As you can see, there isn't many trees to pitch your tent under - although there was lots of muskox poop.

Furthermore, there were mosquitoes galore.  We managed to get through dinner, but dove for the car for after dinner gin rummy.  Open the door quick, shut it, and kill the mosquitoes that got in.  At least it wasn't too hot.