Thursday, October 13, 2011

Day 22 and 23: The Long Slog Home

Day 22/23     10/12 & 13     Hyde Park, NY to Sitka, Alaska   Too many miles

I'll make this short.

Throw the gear in the car.  Bob drives us to Newark, NJ.  Drops us off at the hotel where we spend the rest of the day packing gear and bikes in the stored boxes.

Drag the gear through the airport.  Rip it apart again for airport security.  Stuff it all back in and tape it.  Hope it survives and gets there.

Arrive back in Sitka, through 4 time zones.  Schlep the gear and dump in the garage for the future.

It feels great to be home after a great trip.

Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Day 21: Hyde Park Tourist

Day 21     10/11     Hyde Park     0 miles

Hyde Park is also worth a visit.  Between the Vanderbilts and the Roosevelts, it is very interesting.

I was interested to note at the Franklin Roosevelt museum that there was a court case regarding the social security plan passed by the legislature - almost exactly similar to the ones pending regarding the Patient Protection and Affordable Health Care Act that the Obama administration enacted.  Fortunately or unfortunately, war broke out and interest in court cases waned quickly.




 Glenda and Mary Louise had heard about the Culinary Institute in Hyde Park.  Glenda set us up with reservations and "appropriate clothing" from a thrift store.  Don't we look great?

It was great fun.





I didn't realize the major impact the Roosevelts had on our nation.  It was amazing foresight, when I perceive our current government representatives are only concerned with the here and now.  Just think what might have happened if we had passed the miles per gallon expectations in the 70's when we should have.

Monday, October 10, 2011

Day 20: Along the Hudson River

Day 20     10/10     Hudson to Hyde Park     36 miles

It was hot!  We weren't in the Rockies, but the road was narrow and kept going up and down.  Where's the Canal Trail?  Despite the riding conditions, the Hudson River valley is beautiful.

We stopped at Bard College for a picnic lunch and the student union bathrooms.  We had known some kids who attended there, so it was nice to see what it looked like.






 I loved this yard sale advertisement along the way.












Rhinebeck had worthwhile ice cream. 

Eventually we arrived at Hyde Park where we stayed at a campground at Norrie State Park.  The really nice thing about the time of year is that we were one of about 4 camping parties in a pretty large campground.

Sunday, October 9, 2011

Day 19: Running out of Time for Olana

Day 19     10/9     Albany to Hudson     8 miles

We cheated!  Our plan was to bicycle to New York City.  But, alas, time was getting short.

Mary Louise and I really wanted to see Olana, Frederic Church's estate.  So we decided to rent a car.  The first day, Mary Louise and I would drive so we could get a tour of Olana before it closed.  The next day, we'd switch.

Bob and I got up early and rode 8 miles to the airport to rent a car.  It was nice to ride without all the gear!!! 

I



I f you get a chance, go see Olana.  It is an amazing place.  Sorry about the lousy picture.








We stayed in Hudson, a nice little town that's part "chic" and part economically depressed.  I like the combination although I certainly feel for the struggling people.

Friday, October 7, 2011

Day 17: Just another Beautiful Day

Day 17     10/7     Schenectady to Waterford     24 miles

We started off at the bright and early time of 10 a.m.  Most of the route was along the Mohawk River.






 A hill - and going down to boot!  Go for it!










 I love this picture of two "older people" hanging out having a picnic next to the river in the Fall sunshine.  They're holding hands and appear to be having a fine old time.  But . .. so are we!  We had a picnic ourselves just behind where the picture is taken.









Is this nice or what?  Great day, great company, great country . . . oh boy.
We camped at the first lock which appeared to be Lock 2.  We had a nice grassy area to camp right next to the Canal.  The Erie Canal ended 100 yards east - emptying or starting at the Hudson River.





 Lock 2 leads into the Hudson River.
We're at the end of the Erie Canal.










This is the view from our camping spot.  Nice.





A tourist Canal Boat chugs out of the lock.








We are at the confluence of the Canal and Hudson River.  Good looking group, huh?

Day 18: Breakfast for $1.79 and overpriced "guesthouse"

Day 18     10/7     Waterford to Albany     15 miles

It's not everyday that you can buy breakfast for $1.79: eggs, toast, and coffee.  It's even better when the "regulars" are playing pool at 9 a.m. in the morning.





As you can see, we're at the "confluence" of the Erie Canal, Champlain Canal, and the Hudson River.













Mary Louise pedaling strong toward Albany.  The trail is paved and mostly next to the river.  People are using it, but it's still not too crowded.











It says 360 miles, but I'm sure it was a lot more.










We stayed in a funky State Street Mansion "Guesthouse."  This is the only place we stayed on the whole trip that I would recommend AVOIDING!  Mary Louise and I had no heat for awhile and Bob and Glenda had a prolonged domestic battle above them in the middle of the night.  Not to mention, the "breakfast" promised never showed up.  We did get a $20 rebate when I called, but I should have asked for a lot more.

The "city" is always nice and Mary Louise and I wandered the streets looking for our favorites: ice cream and beer.  We found plenty of both.  We had a great dinner at the "Wine Bistro," which even had a nice outside courtyard that was perfect. 



Thursday, October 6, 2011

Day 16: Irene and we avoid Tragedy

Day 16     10/6     Canajoharie to Schenectady    44 miles

It's amazing how you can see it on the internet or the TV, but seeing devastation in person really makes a much greater impression.  Hurricane Irene had caused flooding in the area in late August of 2011.  Our first introduction was Bill from the Pineapple B and B telling us about the bridges that were closed and that we would have to "reroute." 






People's possessions were just piled high next to the road.











 This bridge is OUT!  That's a long drop.








 It was kind of fun winding around figuring out how to get to where we were going, but the trail and roads were clear (with Bob navigating very well!) until late in the day the trail was blocked by a huge pile of brush and trees and shredded wood from the debris.  We were able to take the bikes down a short steep hill to the concrete seawall next to the river.  Bob was in the lead.  When he stooped down to clear some debris from his way, the bike and trailer with Haagu in it jackknifed and almost went in the water.

Luckily, the bike and trailer stayed on shore but the front handlebar bag flipped open and dumped the contents in the water - including camera, wallet and a few other less important items.  I was next in line and I through my bike off to the side and start running to help.   Quick as a flash, I see Bob scramble down the ladder, somehow grab the wallet, and I still have no idea how he did it, heaves himself back up the ladder one handed.  The water was 5 feet below the last rung of the ladder!  How he did it, I'll never know.  Whew!









The scene of the averted tragedy!  If you look really closely, you can see how far the water is below the last rung of the ladder.  You can see part of the mound of the debris on the left.







No good story is without a fairy godmother or similar.  We had met Dwight and Ron, two other and the only full trail bicyclists we met, who helped us move the rest of the bicycles and trailers around and back to the trail.  We also managed to float the camera "bag" and other items downriver to a barge where Ron was able to retrieve them.  No camera, but the camera card had just been changed the pictures survived!

Long day of riding which we didn't expect, but we found a Days Inn that took dogs and bicycle equipment and had a great meal and more beer than we should have.





Wednesday, October 5, 2011

Day 15: Gem in the Rough

Day 15     10/5      Herkimer to Canajoharie     ? miles

What fun!  We woke up to clouds and before long the sun popped out and stayed.  You can't beat a beautiful New England fall day and the beautiful town of Little Falls - especially with the wind behind us.


We stopped at sub shop in Little Falls when I took this picture.  The best part was Mary Louise and I were standing along the street with the bikes and a medium young woman walks across the street with a kind of baby blanket over her shoulder.  We say hello and it turns out that she has a cockatiel in a cage under the blanket - which she takes everywhere that she goes - winter, summer, you name it.  I just wished I had taken a picture.










 Look at that sky!  Get in the mood.









 Despite the hill getting there, the Pineapple Bed and Breakfast was the best yet.  Bill, the innkeeper, met us with a 12 pack of assorted Saranac Lake beer and outside chairs in the sun.  Then we proceeded to beat up on poor Sarah Palin.   Stay there if  you get a chance.  You can't beat beer and ragging on Sarah.





We finished the day at a "true" Italian restaurant that was very good and inexpensive.  Then back at the Pineapple we were served ice cream and apple deluxe.

Tuesday, October 4, 2011

Day 14: Breakfast at Denny's!!!

Day 14     Rome to Herkimer     10/4     30 miles

Sometimes it's the little things in life.  We had not eaten at a "chain" restaurant yet in the trip, but our breakfast at Denny's hit the spot - and I'm not necessarily a Denny's fan - and I know it's not Mary Louise's favorite.  Maybe I will be now - or maybe it's like the great taste of hot dogs over a fire on a picnic in the sun with plenty of beer - good at the time but don't try it at home.

We rode through the city of Utica.  It was great fun as we pedaled through various ethnic neighborhoods: first Vietnamese, then Cambodian, African, Italian, and more.  It would have been fun to eat our way through the neighborhoods.  Then we hit small towns on a two lane road: Frankfort, Ilion, Mohawk, and then Herkimer.

The Herkimer Motel and Suites was a great place to stay.  Dick's Bicycle Shop tightened up my crank in a big way.  Kept the special washer in and it hasn't given me a bit of trouble since.  Dick's is a great shop with a mix of classic and new bicycles in a homey atmosphere.  I'd like a shop like that someday.


Monday, October 3, 2011

Day 13: Sun and 10 cent washers

Day 13     10/3     Green Lakes to Rome     37 miles

The Canal Trail is really nice.  Overall, it's a great mix of big cities which are quite craftily routed for bikes, pleasant scenic villages and towns with basic services, and rural areas that are just pretty - especially with the leaves starting to turn color.  Today we road along an "old canal" that had been rerouted sometime in the past.  We saw signs of beavers (tree stumps chewed as only beaver can), turtles (which we'd been looking for all along the way and hadn't seen yet), and of course some old deserted overgrown cars in the woods.

Sometimes you'll see fisherpeople.  This family was fishing in the rain.


I was mightily tired of tightening the bottom bracket multiple times a day, but we hadn't come across a bike shop.  After the 400th time, I saw a building being worked on and a workman standing outside.  I asked him if he had any kind of lock washer that might fit.  Lo and behold, he took out a bag of washers and the first one fit.  It wasn't a lock washer but had some type of grommet on the inside of the head.  But I tried it and RELIEF!  It worked.

Sunday, October 2, 2011

Day 12: Day of the Feast

Day 12     10/2     Layover at Green Lakes    Ride for food!

There's something pleasant and comforting about listening the patter and drum of rain on the roof while in a sleeping bag in a cabin rather than a tent.  And, the day gets progressively better.  Bob and I to Fayetteville to get dinner makings.

On our way back, we see a "fresh corn" sign that's "just ahead."  Bob rides on while I go deliver the rest of the groceries.  5 more miles of "just ahead" and he's back with fresh corn.

Baked chicken, fresh corn on the cob, panera bread, fresh salad, potato salad, and two bottles of wine is better than just about any restaurant.

Keep that fire going, though!  Below is our quaint little cabin. 

Mary Louise and I go for a hike and it feels great to have a layover day.

Saturday, October 1, 2011

Day 11: Rain and Wind and Best Laid Plans Go Astray

Day 11     10/1     Weedsport to Green Lakes     38 Miles

We wake up to geese and wind.

Bob has found a bike shop that has a rim and can relace the wheel on a Saturday.  The plan hinges on an Enterprise car rental right along the trail in Syracuse.  They take off to get there.

Glenda's trailer has a flat and we catch up.  By this time, it's rain and wind.  We stop to put on rain gear so we don't get too wet and cold.

We arrive at the Enterprise Car Rental.  BUT, it's closes early on Saturday and it just closed.  Amazingly, Bob calls the bike shop across town and he comes  over and picks up Glenda and her bike.  I strap on her trailer to my bike and Bob, Mary Louise, and I cycle on through the rain and traffic.

In the race for the car, none of us have eaten so we stop at a bar in Syracuse.  Whew, I needed that.  Here is Bob and Mary Louise outside the bar getting ready to go again.  You can't see it in the picture but the weather is ugly.
A very long day brings us into Green Lakes State Park where Glenda has reserved a cabin.  Not a fancy cabin but we build a fire in the fireplace and turn on the oven on high with the door open.  Luckily, Glenda gets delivered by the bike shop (name of bike shop and guy!!!) and he tells us of one place that will deliver pizza.  We do it and it's good.

Friday, September 30, 2011

Day 10: Split Rim - and which we camp!

Day 10     9/30     Newark to Weedsport     37 Miles

Started on some paved road which is a nice change from the "stone dust" of the Canal Trail.  Of course, the downside is the car traffic.  Oh well, you can't have it all - or most of the time, at least.  Glenda's rear bike rim develops a split - unusual but true!  I tell Bob that I'm glad that we don't have fancy bikes, although he points out my crank needs tightening about every 30 minutes.

Camped by a nice river, although the whole place was infected with Canadian geese.  As long as you're camping, it sure is nice to have a little restaurant and bar at the same  location.  $2 draft beer and we watch the Tampa Bay Rays baseball team win on the bar TV!

Bob makes about 20 calls to Syracuse bike shops to find a new 20" rim.


The doggone geese wake us up early in the morning.  Nature!

Thursday, September 29, 2011

Day 9: Sometimes Just Leave "Well Enough" ALONE!

Day 9     9/29     Fairport to Newark     () miles

Bob and Glenda have some very nice Bike Friday folding bikes.  We have classic Univega Alpina Unos from the early 1980's that are heavy as lead.  My crank was starting to grind a bit, so we stopped at the RV&E Bike Shop in Fairport.  They weren't busy so we all managed to help their gross profit.  Rather than grease the old one, they suggested a new bottom bracket, so I said go ahead.  Hmmm.  Bob got a new chain and sprocket, Glenda an odometer, and Mary Louise and I got mirrors too.

Off we go.  Ooops, my crank is loose.  I start to ride back and have everyone go ahead, but Bob says let's just use the old "two wrench trick" (one wrench on the nut and the other cranks on the wrench).  That seemed to work great.

Oops. Loose.  Tighten.

Loose. Tighten.

Sometimes it's just better to leave well enough alone.  Maybe there'll be a bike shop ahead somewhere.   Meanwhile, pedal softly and carry a bigger wrench than we have.




 Late in the day we had a nice 5 miles off in the trees next to the canal.  Bob tows Haagu in the picture below him.   Bob created a slick system by mounting a dog kennel on wheels that he tows behind his bike.  Sometimes Haagu gets in the kennel and gets a ride.  Other times, he is clipped to the side of Bob's bike and pulls Bob and his rig along.  Would that be called synergy?

Wednesday, September 28, 2011

Day 8: A Day ending in RAIN!

Day 8     9/28    Brockport to Fairport    35 miles

It's the serendipity that makes travel worthwhile.  I think the slower you go, the greater of the chance of serendipity.  For us, it was the stop in the pleasant town of Medina.  A grandson at home, who loves trains, was the motivation for the stop at Medina Railroad Museum.  After a few wrong turns, we found it - but alas . . .  CLOSED.  But as we were standing there looking stupid, the creator of the museum opens the door and says "Come on in!"  (unfortunately, I can't remember his name but an amazing person)  The model trains and displays are amazing in their complexity and just plain fun.  Go, even if you don't really like trains!

Just when we got to the Twenty Woodlawn, just off the Canal trail, WHAM.  The deluge began - and what a deluge.  We huddled on the porch you see below, waiting for Bill and Connie.  Soon the streets were rivers and we were just glad to be huddled.    
Bill and Connie showed up and we headed for the showers.  Just a bit of warning, Twenty Woodlawn is a great B and B, but don't put something down - you might lose it with all the other trinkets around!

Bill and Connie are wonderful people.  Thanks.

Tuesday, September 27, 2011

Day 7 Day of the Missing Wallet

Day 7    9/27     Albion to Brockport   ? miles

Not all goes as planned.  A bit of rain, but not enough to get out the rain jackets.  Brockport was a pretty little town with a business district that was alive and well - unlike some  of the towns that we had come through in the last couple of days.  Mary Louise got a new bike seat at Bicycle Outfitters Brockport.  It was great to be able to try different ones and have a real person help without getting irritated that you didn't just buy the first one.

Uh-oh.  Bob realizes that he didn't have his wallet.  Not a good thing.  He had taken a spill earlier in the day on the trail and items had fallen out of the front handlebar bag.  He wondered if it had fallen out and he hadn't seen it on the ground.  A call back to the Schoolhouse B&B confirmed that they hadn't seen it.  Here's Bob and Haagu and our gear in the back of the truck.

The short story is that Enterprise had no cars so we rented the smallest U-haul we could.  After driving all the gear and girls out to the Gingerbread B&B (another great B&B, but a bit farther off the Canal) Bob and I took our bikes to go look on the trail.  Luckily, before we got too far on the trail, Bob got a call that Jeri had found it.  They would deliver it that evening to our B&B!!!!  WHEW!  Lost . . . and found again.


Monday, September 26, 2011

Day 6 Dinner and a Show!

Day 6     9/26  Gasport to Albion     ? miles

Another great day riding alongside the canal - flat, pretty, and no traffic.  You can't beat that.  We continue to follow along the oldest part of the Canal that is still used by charter and private boats, so there are only small towns and little traffic of any kind.

At the end of the day, we were met by Lou and Jeri at the Erie Canal Schoolhouse B&B.  Lou helped us put the bikes inside as Jeri took the girls on a tour of our rooms.  They also told us of a restaurant across the bridge that was good - The Crooked Door - owned by a retired teacher which always made us raise our eyebrows.  They were right - it was very good and not crowded either.  And, very important in our crowd, the draft beer was fresh and cold.

The amazing part of the Schoolhouse B&B is the Exhibition Room on the top floor.  Part history, part entertainment, but it is amazing and worth seeing no matter who you are or where you come from.  What a show!

Sunday, September 25, 2011

Day 5 - Wonderful World of Bed and Breakfasts

Day 5     9/25    Tonawanda - Gasport    () miles

The Erie Canal Trail is mostly off road, either paved or hard "gravel" (the guide book calls it stone dust), and well marked.  We had very little bicycle or pedestrian traffic - and didn't have one incident with a mean dog.

Bob and Glenda had done some research and reserved places to stay for our first couple of days.  It was a good thing and nice not have to make decisions.  Country Cottage Bed and Breakfast was a gold mine find - all because of the proprietess, Sue Pearson.   But I'm getting ahead of myself.

There wasn't much in the way of places to eat, so Bob and I volunteered to ride a couple of miles down the road and get what we could.  We got some great subs (Upstate New York is SUB country.   There are tons of sub shops and many of them very good.) and found some beer at the convenience store.  We all sat on the back deck of Sue's house and watched the light fade and listened to the train whistles as we ate much deserved subs and drank beer.

The next morning we noticed a map with pushpins in it.  When asked, Sue told us that represented all the places that she had been.  Bob and Glenda are pretty impressive travelers, but she had them beat all to heck.  With a great breakfast, we also learned about Sue's Mom, who came through Ellis Island.  Sue had the framed documentation with her Mom's name and "pertinent" information on it.  Stay there - you won't be disappointed if you like people.

Saturday, September 24, 2011

Day 4 - In Which we really Start!

Day 4     Niagara Falls to North Tonawanda and a $170 Econolodge     20 miles by  BIKE!

Wow, Niagara Falls are beautiful.  It's worth a trip.
Mount up!  Let's begin!  Four people over 55 years old, 4 bikes, 2 trailers, and a dog. 
After a scenic ride along the Niagara River, we turn left and go east at the Erie Canal.  We want to camp a little further along, but alas, no camping permitted.  That meant a ride along a busy Niagara Boulevard.  At the 5th hotel we checked at, there were 2 rooms at an Econolodge that would take adults and a dog.  Great!  Until the bombshell dropped - $170 per room.  Better to be sleeping other than a park bench, so we took it.  Plus, it was dark.  Turned out the Buffalo Bills were playing the next day!

Friday, September 23, 2011

Day 3 "Getting Ready" yet again

Day 3    9/23     () miles by car

The good news is that we found the hotel fine.  But, no rooms available as yet.  Me, your image of cheapness, decides to return the car within the 24 hours.  I leave Mary Louise with all the gear in what is really the parking lot and run the car back to Buffalo airport.  Compounding a lousy decision, I pay more for the shuttle to Niagara than I should (by far, but we won't go into that).

I don't know about you, but there's always something we don't have.  I have checked around for bike shops on the internet before I left to find a front pannier rack.  I've followed up with a call, but none of the bike shops answer their phone.

Now that I've returned the car, we decide we may as well walk to the most likely choice (you'd think we'd ride, but one second item is that I have a tire pump for presta but not schrader - which my bike tires are schrader . . . )  We do, and walk, and walk, and walk - about 6 miles we figure later.  But we get there!  But they have no front pannier racks.  Hmmm.  Why can't a place just answer their phone.

Fortunately, Bob calls about that time and they've arrived.  He most kindly gives us a ride back - which by now is in POURING rain.

The bike shop does have a pump!  Progress!

I get tired of getting ready and getting ready and not being really ready. 


Thursday, September 22, 2011

Day 2 Off to Niagara Falls by car

Day 2   9/22  Newark, NJ to Niagara Falls, NY   Many miles

After sleeping as late as possible, Bob calls.  He and Glenda (and Haagu, the dog) never got out of Alaska due to weather.  They might make it by that night anyway.

We slit the seal on the boxes and they explode with bicycle parts and gear.  We cram bike parts together to make some semblance of a bike and jam gear into panniers.

I take off to the airport for the rental.  All proceeds smoothly until I try and get back to the hotel across two limited 4 lane limited entry highways.  50 minutes later I arrive back at the hotel - a whole quarter of a mile from the rental place as the crow flies.

Mary Louise has had the unenviable job of getting all the gear out of our room and waiting for me.

We store the bike boxes at the hotel, and stuff the gear and bikes into the car and take off.

Wednesday, September 21, 2011

Day 1: Air Travel Challenge

Thursday, 9/22     Sitka, AK to Newark, NJ     3250 miles

Whew.  The logistics are always challenging.  Box up two 1982 bicycles (heavy!) and gear to live for three weeks.  Show up at the Sitka airport at 4:55 a.m. and get the bikes through security.  Hang out in an airplane all day and arrive in Newark where the airport doors do not allow bike boxes to fit through while wheeling them in a cart.

Are we having fun yet?

Tuesday, September 20, 2011

Erie Canal Bicycle Trip Overview

“Do you guys want to bicycle the Erie Canal next Fall?” my brother asked.
“I dunno.” I replied.
“It'll be flat,” Bob explained.

Eight months later, there we were. We made a good choice – it was a great trip.

The Erie Canal extends from North Tonawanda outside Buffalo to Albany for a distance of 360 miles – or vice versa. We decided to start on the western end to take advantage of the prevailing westerly winds. Hmmm.

You can see I took this picture on the eastern end.

The Canal Trail is well maintained and well marked. Most of it is along the towpath right next to the Canal which is closed to motorized traffic. There are times when you have to bicycle on real roads either in the countryside or in city traffic - but not much.

The Erie Canal has a very interesting history. I will let you read about it here, rather than pretend I know something.
These trip snippets are intended to be enjoyed and to entice you to go out and do your trip, wherever it may lead.

The Canal Trail was well marked, mostly with these signs:










I particularly like this sign, which was a bit confusing to me.  Unfortunately, it was a weekday!!!  Which way?









My only advice is to go.  It'll be fun.  I promise.